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52. Ep. 52 - In Conversation with Michel Nydegger
42:14||Ep. 52With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority.Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches.We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker quietly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing.Show notes:02:30: Michel's journey into watchmaking06:36: Managing succession of a founder-led brand11:30: The decision to reject expanding the business beyond ~200 pieces/year14:00: The development of the Qualité Musée standard16:25: The role of R&D and technical innovation at Greubel Forsey22:45: Adapting the house style of architectural watchmaking to smaller watches23:45: The Hand Made series, preserving traditional skills, and balancing production30:00: In-house hairspring production32:10: Handling bespoke and custom orders responsibly34:40: Longevity and lessons from two decades of independent watchmaking38:40: The future of ultra high-end watch market and the importance of intrinsic value40:35: Recognition and awards in the watch industry
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51. Ep. 51 - Geneva Watch Days Recap
09:51||Ep. 51Geneva Watch Days just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. The event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media. In total, some 400 watches were debuted at the event - but were they any good?
50. Ep. 50 - Big Brands to Beat
15:41||Ep. 50Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe.The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands in terms of finishing and execution. Show notes:00:30: Universal People Universal Dreams by Luca Mignini03:47: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT10:10: Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5227G
49. Ep. 49 - Independent Watchmaking Retrospective
19:56||Ep. 49Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, which will feature 71 (mostly independent) brands in 2026, episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming what was once a solitary pursuit into a global collector community.Listeners can sign up for the SJX Newsletter by August 12, 2026 for a chance to win a Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus.Show notes:00:23: Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus giveaway02:25: Geneva Watch Days 2026 preview and origins04:00: The pioneers of independent watchmaking10:00: The 2000s wave and the influence of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity12:09: Survivorship bias, changing tastes, and returning makers14:03: Post-Covid independents, specialist suppliers, and social media18:43: Predictions for what comes next
48. Ep. 48 - Horological Heatwave
18:37||Ep. 48As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, episode 48 of the SJX Podcast rounds up some of the best summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2026, spanning nearly every price category.Show notes:00:40: Kollokium Projekt 2 Variant C01:34: Baltic Heures du Monde02:10: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF00103:40: Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition04:25: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”05:56: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer07:16: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium09:15: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver10:20: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Cardinal Points"12:15: Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller14:10: Greubel Forsey Balancier 315:48: Rolex gem-set Daytona quartet
47. Ep. 47 - Second-Chance Watches
22:58||Ep. 47The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing.In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887.Show notes:00:30: Seiko Star Time for Shohei Ohtani02:37: IWC ProSet Perpetual Calendar07:35: Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 196912:18: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement14:10: TAG Heuer Monaco V416:15: TAG Heuer high-frequency chronographs18:15: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twin Chrono and Audemars Piguet Michael Schumacher Laptimer20:23: Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek ref. 7887
46. Ep. 46 - A Rolling Rolex
11:10||Ep. 46In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon and SJX examine the Swiss watch industry's June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop.The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand's patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement.Show notes:00:35: Analysis of June data for Swiss watch exports05:20: Rolex inclined-plane clock09:30: Rolex Submariner Desk Clock