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Joy
I had not been exploring the world of fragrance long before I heard about Olfiction and Boujee Bougies (I may or may not have paid closer attention because of the clever play on words). One half of this astounding word-smithery is creative director Nick Gilbert. Nick has done the hard yards behind a perfume counter and has worn many hats from fragrance trainer, evaluator, fragrance writer to marketer and consultant. He is also a real joy to talk to and we cover pride, shame, power dynamics and control, as well as that Cassis can be both wonderful note and smell like cat piss. The world is not so much either/or, but more and/and.
Fragrances mentioned:
Armani Prive Bois d'Encens - Giorgio Armani
Books mentioned:
Tom of Finland: The Official Life and Work of a Gay Hero - F. Valentine Hooven III
A Master of Djinn - P. Djèlí Clark
Find Olfiction on Instagram @olfictionlimited or on their website olfiction.com
Find Boujee Bougies on Instagram @bougieboujees or on their website boujeebougies.com
Find Nick on Instagram @nickrgilbert
Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records
More episodes
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32. Acquisition & Possession
01:12:14||Season 1, Ep. 32The landscape of fragrance easily can fall into the realm of collection, be it materials or the search for the ultimate scent. But what if this process becomes something a little bit darker… This is the last of the special spooky season series, as well as the final episode for season 1. It has been a true pleasure to talk to such a wide variety of guests, and this week's guest is no exception. Nadia Vitlin is a perfumer who specializes in bespoke creations, scent visual art, and offers training for those interested in expanding their own knowledge. Nadia has spent ten years learning and developing her craft, and it was a delight to discuss a book that explores the grotesque aspects of material acquisition and the obsession that can come with possessing a scent. Taking a concept and extending it beyond the realms of polite or sensible society can truly illustrate the edges of humanity and where the boundaries of good moral judgment lie. Can a scent or an aroma make us cross that boundary into madness? It's something to ponder as we approach Halloween, a time when boundaries notoriously blur.Fragrances mentioned: Fougère Royale - Houbigant ParfumJicky - GuerlainFleurs D'oranger - Serge Lutens Sécrétions Magnifiques - Etat Libre d'OrangeJasmin et Cigarette - Etat Libre d'Orange Eau d'Hadrien - Annick GoutalBooks mentioned: Perfume: The Story of A Murderer - Patrick SüskindThe Foul and the Fragrant: Odor and the French Social Imagination - Alain Corbin Find Vistley on Instagram or on their website www.vitsley.comTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records31. Part 2: Meaning & Mystery
50:00||Season 1, Ep. 31If you were to sum up the theme for episode four of the spooky season series, it would be this: Life can get pretty dark if you can’t take a joke…Let’s catch up with the second part of the red string, photo board and many drawing pins that is pulling together two more text and a few more fragrances with Nuri McBride Nuri is not just a perfumer; she is also a dedicated community educator and an insightful writer who regularly explores the rich intersection of olfaction and death rituals throughout history. In this episode we get a little medieval and discover the importance of humour, as well as bringing light to dark places and unknowable situations. In keeping with tradition, our conversation has been so rich and layered that I have had to divide it up over several episodes for your enjoyment. Please do listen to Part 1 first, otherwise this conversation may not make as much sense as you would hope. Fragrances mentioned:Acqua Della Regina- Santa Maria Novella Dirty Velvet- Vilhelm Parfumerie Books mentioned: The Name of the Rose - Umberto EcoA Natural History of Hell - Jeffery Ford Find Nuri McBride on Instagram or on their website.The Alabastron Journal can be find at alabastronjournal.comTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records30. Part 1: Death & Rituals
01:04:32||Season 1, Ep. 30Onwards to episode three of the spooky season series where we talk about Death, rituals, the creation of meaning and mystery. Now with a dash of necromancy…How can one truly discuss the intricate topics of fragrance, death, and rituals without the invaluable insights of Nuri McBride? It seems only fitting that we take this opportunity to ‘resurrect’ a former guest who has made significant contributions to the conversation. Nuri is not just a perfumer; she is also a dedicated community educator and an insightful writer who regularly explores the rich intersection of olfaction and death rituals throughout history. I am genuinely pleased to welcome her back to the podcast for another of our winding book club and fragrant pairings. In keeping with tradition, our conversation has been so rich and layered that I have had to divide it up over several episodes for your enjoyment. So, please sit back and immerse yourself in this deep dive into the fascinating realms of necromancy and world building in part one of our series.Fragrances mentioned:Lady Vengeance - Juliette Has A Gun De Profundis - Serge Lutens After Every Ounce of Joy (Leaves My Body) - Chris Rusak Macbeth - Shakespeare Perfumes Books mentioned: Gideon the Ninth - Tamsyn Muir Harrow the Ninth - Tamsyn Muir Heavenly Bodies: Cult Treasures & Spectacular Saints from the Catacombs - Paul KoudounarisThe Foul and the Fragrant - Alain Corbin Find Nuri McBride on Instagram or on their website.The Alabastron Journal can be find at alabastronjournal.comTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records29. Must Love Cats and Darkness
01:16:18||Season 1, Ep. 29In this second instalment of our Spooky Season series, we explore the theme of horror through anxiety—the unsettling sensation that something catastrophic lurks just beyond our perception. Anxiety manifests in many forms, often creeping into our thoughts like a shadow in the dark. It amplifies our worries, transforming mundane situations into catastrophic scenarios. The potential for things to go horribly wrong becomes a breeding ground for horror, as our imagination runs wild with the possibilities: a simple drive turns into a nightmare, a casual conversation spirals into conflict, and unexpected events become the start of a downward spiral.In this episode, I am speaking with Sarah, who is also known by her pen name S. Elizabeth. She is a talented writer and the author of three wild and wonderfully imaginative art books. In addition to her writing, she maintains a consistent blog and has a passion for savouring fragrances, particularly during the witching hour. Fragrances mentioned:Dark Season - Neil Morris Tea Rose - Perfumers WorkshopGreen Spell - Eris ParfumCoven - Andrea MaackCoriandre - Jean CouturierNuit de Bakerlite - Naomi Goodsir Series 3: Incense - Kyoto - Comme des GarconsVerveine d'Été - Le Jardin RetrouveBooks mentioned: They Call Me Naughty Lola: Personal Ads from the London Review of Books - David Rose Incidents Around the House - Josh Malerman Thornhedge - T Kingfisher Rebecca - Daphne de Maurier Find S.Elizabeth on Instagram @ghoulnextdoor or follow the wide and varied links of books, blogs and all manner of other fun things on her linktr.eeTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records28. Haunted
01:00:00||Season 1, Ep. 28In the first of our Spooky Season series - we talk about how we can ‘defang’ death, the loneliness of grief and different cultural perspectives on ritual those no longer with us.In this episode, we discuss Louise’s first book, Hungry Bones, which explores profound themes of loneliness and connection. We discuss how cultural perspectives on death shape our understanding and acceptance of it, and how open conversations can demystify and reduce the fear surrounding death.Louise shares insights on how fragrance can evoke powerful memories and emotions tied to personal experiences, and the significant role scent plays in rituals and cultural practices surrounding death. We explore how young adult literature, like This Poison Heart, addresses complex themes in accessible ways, with characters that are nuanced and relatable, reflecting real-life struggles - whilst emphasizes the importance of representation in literature, showcasing joy alongside struggle.Join us as we highlight the interconnectedness of scent, memory, and identity, and the importance of open, honest discussions about death and representation in literature.Fragrances mentioned:Pikake Essential OilWhite Flower Oil Aromatics Elixir - CliniqueVive La Fleur - Flaner Fragrances Books mentioned: Hungry Bones - Louise HungThis Poison Heart - Kalynn Bayron Find Louise Hung on Instagram @louisehung1 or purchase a copy of ‘Hungry Bones’ from Scholastic (you can find it in larger book providers, but make good choices) Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records27. The Nature Of Animals
47:50||Season 1, Ep. 27Our companions are not always human. The meaningful and grounding connections that we make can easily be with an animal or a tree…In this episode, we explore the intrinsic bond between humanity and companionship, emphasizing the profound impact that our beloved animal companions on our lives. Liz Moores, a self-taught perfumer and the creative force behind Papillion Perfumery, shares her insights on how these relationships with creatures and nature that inspire her craft. Liz captures the essence of cherished moments in her fragrances, each one a tribute to the memories - the scents serve as olfactory reminders of the joy and warmth that these relationships bring. Also discussed is the importance of connecting with nature and how best to express the change of seasons through scent.Fragrances mentioned:Anubis - PapillionEpona - PapillionDryad - PapillionBooks mentioned:Whispers Under Ground - Ben Aaronovitch The Belgariad (series) - David Eddings Orphia and Eurydicius - Elyse JohnFind Papillion Perfumery on Instagram @papillonartisanperfumes or on their website papillonperfumery.co.ukTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records26. Inheritance
01:06:35||Season 1, Ep. 26Are the stories about our culture and community what we make or what are given to us? Örök Fragrances is a freshly launched fragrance house that passionately focuses on the rich stories and unique experiences of the queer community, all intricately told through the captivating medium of scent. In this episode, I have the pleasure of speaking with John, the visionary founder of the new Melbourne-based brand, Örök Fragrances. These thoughtfully crafted fragrances range from the delightfully weird and otherworldly to the cleverly playful and cheeky. Each scent invites wearers to explore their identity and celebrate their individuality.Fragrances mentioned:5am - Örök Fragrances Vapor Bloom -Örök Fragrances Undergrowth - Örök Fragrances Shoreline - Örök Fragrances Rave - Örök Fragrances Lavs - Filippo SorcinelliYakisugi Wood - Flaner FragranceBooks mentioned: The Genesis of Misery - Neon YangBeasts and Beauty: Dangerous Tales - Soman Chainani Out of the Blue - Jason June Wicked and Divine: Fandemonium - Gillian McKelvie and Wilson CowlesThe Colour Of Magic - Terry Pratchett Find Örök Fragrances on Instagram @orokfragrances or on their website orokfragrances.auTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records24. Political Intrigue
51:37||Season 1, Ep. 24Political machinations are always interesting and show much safer when you are in the cheap seats of being a reader. Keeping your head above water in a historical context may just be about keeping it on your neckYou have to be a little bit brave to start out as a fragrance reviewer in the world of social media these days. Charlotte has recently started reviewing scents and sewing as a side hustle to expand her collection. Charlotte like to deep dive into the history of fragrances as well as offer reviews of scents that she loves. She is a fan of a skin scent, so there are a few fragrances in her collection that are not the usual names that I would reach for. In the episode we discuss her love of the Tudors, big books and how sometimes audiobooks need a really good narrator. Fragrances mentioned:Citrus - Olfactive O Bainin - Cloon KeenCarnal Flower - Frederic Malle Interlude Black Iris Man - Amouage Radical Rose - Matiere Premiere Hayat - XerjoffScorpio Rising - Eris ParfumsWonderwood - Comme Des Garcon Copper - Comme Des Garcon Books mentioned: Wolf Hall - Hilary MantelCity of Brass - S.A. ChakrabortyFind Charlotte on Instagram @scentsofdirection Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records