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836: Ruth Reichl: Five Memoirs, One Hot Substack, No Filter
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Ruth Reichl reviewed restaurants for the Los Angeles Times and the New York Times, ran the country’s most legendary food magazine, and wrote five memoirs about all the meals enjoyed and life lived. Today she’s doing it again on her wonderful Substack, La Briffe, unfiltered and endlessly curious. Recorded live at the Traverse City Food & Wine festival, Matt talks with Ruth about her University of Michigan years, her passion for memoir, and her take on where food criticism stands today.
Also on the show, I have a great conversation with Martin Sorge, author of the terrific new book Great Bakes.
Read Ruth’s savage New York Times review of the Box Tree restaurant from 1998.
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856: What Does the Future Hold for California Wine?
01:02:47|Today on the show, Resy managing editor Jon Bonné and Matt have an incredible roundtable conversation with three California wineries that changed California wine forever: Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Lee Roberts of Arnot-Roberts, Matt Licklider of Lioco Wine Co., and Steve and Jill Klein Matthiasson of Matthiasson Wines. Twenty years ago, they were the insurgents. Now they’re the establishment, as the industry encounters new drinkers and rapid change. In this episode, we talk about the big topics in California wine today. We figured it all out over the course of an hour! Just kidding, but this is a must-listen for anybody interested in the future of wine.The views expressed in this podcast are those of the speakers – not Resy—and do not constitute professional business advice.
855: Ayesha Nurdjaja on the Line: Burns, Swollen Knuckles, and Stolen Kunz Spoons
01:05:05|Ayesha Nurdjaja grew up in Gravesend, Brooklyn, with an Indonesian father, an Italian mother, and a grandmother who walked her to Sahadi’s on Atlantic Avenue. After years in Italian kitchens like Felidia, she talked her bosses into a Middle Eastern New Year’s Eve menu that became the wildly popular Shuka and later Shukette. We discuss her debut cookbook, Mediterranean All the Way, a legendary onion dip, and her collection of stolen spoons. Also on the show Matt has a great conversation with Zola Gregory. Zola is a TASTE columnist and worked on The Pasta Box, a just-released recipe deck from TASTE featuring 50 pasta recipes that transform any dry pasta into tomato-y, cheesy, and creamy dishes. The recipes are so good. Buy: The Pasta Box
854: Adam Weisblatt Wrote the Restaurant Industry’s Realest Owner’s Manual
01:13:22|Adam Weisblatt has opened seven restaurants with Last Word Hospitality, the LA group behind Hermon’s, Barra Santos, and Rasarumah. His terrific new book, For the Love of Restaurants, colorfully traces the arc of building a restaurant—from location scouting, lease negotiations, financing, hiring, and opening night—through the story of the group’s first and smallest restaurant, Found Oyster. Adam joins the show to talk about why he wrote the industry playbook he wishes someone had handed him, and why sharing hard-earned knowledge is good for operators and restaurant fans alike.Also on the show, Matt talks about some recent restaurant visits in Los Angeles, including stops at Rustic Canyon, Mírate, Soban, and Little Fish.Subscribe: Apple, Spotify, YouTube
853: Rachel Gurjar Thinks Mumbai and NYC Should Be Sister Cities
01:06:50|Rachel Gurjar is a Mumbai-born, Brooklyn-based chef and recipe developer whose recipes have appeared in Bon Appétit and the New York Times. Her new debut cookbook, East to East: Recipes and Stories From Mumbai to New York, showcases her love for the two cities that shaped her through more than 100 innovative dishes that combine Indian staples with some New York flair. Today on the show, Rachel goes deep on her story, the importance of recipe testing, and how she brought this singular book to life.Also on the show Matt has a really great conversation with Kyle Beechey. Kyle is a writer, actor, and playwright, and is staging her first show - “The Restaurant Diaries” - in a downtown New York City restaurant. The show runs October 18 - November 9. Get your tickets while they are available.Subscribe: Apple, Spotify, YouTube
852: Washington Post Food Critic Elazar Sontag on His First Big Best Restaurants List
59:36|Elazar Sontag published a cookbook at 18, ran Bon Appétit’s Best New Restaurants list in his mid-twenties, and (last fall) succeeded Tom Sietsema as the Washington Post’s food critic—with no disguise required. He joins us to talk all about his inaugural best restaurants list, which is firmly an Elazar list and likely causing some debate in and around DC. We also talk about bringing back star ratings, his many travels to Virginia and Maryland, and much more with one of my favorite voices in modern food writing. It was a real treat to have Elazar in the studio. Read: The 40 Best Restaurants In and Around Washington D.C.Subscribe: Apple, Spotify, YouTube
851: Eric Sze’s Cookbook Puts a Question Mark on Taiwanese Food on Purpose
01:08:32|Eric Sze first joined the show amid research for his debut cookbook, Taiwanese?. The book will be released later this month, and I speak with the Wenwen chef about his deep research around lu rou fan, what “authentically inauthentic” really means on the page versus the plate, and how his sparkling book brings fresh perspective to both Taiwanese food and culture. Also on the show, Matt shares some of his recent restaurant visits in northern California, including stops at Valley, El Molino Central, and Flour + Water Pizzeria. Subscribe: Apple, Spotify, YouTube
850: Clarissa Wei Sells Excellent Soy Sauce and Demystifies Ancient Postpartum Cooking Practices
42:05|Clarissa Wei is a writer and cofounder of HEYDOH, a single-origin Taiwanese soy sauce brand. Her debut cookbook, Made in Taiwan, was a cultural exploration of the island she calls home. Now she’s following it up with Sitting the Month, a study of postpartum cooking and care informed by Chinese medicine and her own experiences with zuò yuè zi. Clarissa stopped by the studio to go deep on this fascinating ancient practice and its contemporary evolutions as well as to share updates from her life as a single-origin soy sauce founder. Subscribe: Apple, Spotify, YouTube
849: Where New York Is Actually Eating This Fall with Resy’s Deanna Ting
36:08|Resy’s managing editor, Deanna Ting, is back to talk all about New York City restaurants. She and Matt work through the Resy Hit List, with stops at a British Indian chophouse in Hudson Yards, the Houseman chef’s seafood follow-up in East Williamsburg, Dominican-Texas barbecue in Bushwick, and a fine-dining vet’s Greenpoint bistro, plus her own guide to 31 tasting and prix-fixe menus under $100.Some of the Resy and Tock restaurants mentioned on the episode:CynthiaGood Time Country BuffetC as in CharlieKisaArthurAtoboyFalansai6 Restaurant AquavitDirt CandySmithereensZoliHousemanLeiMakina CafeHa's Snack Bar 4 Charles Prime Rib TheodoraAmbassadors ClubhousePasserineKidilumElderHommaliNarkaraFish CheeksBangkok Supper ClubTxikitoBar BêteMắmZimmi'sBar ChimeraThe views expressed in this podcast are those of the speakers – not Resy—and do not constitute professional business advice.
848: Kendal Mitchell Turns Eggshells Into Servingware: A Design Intervention for Food Waste
43:51|Kendal Mitchell is a chef and biomaterials designer based in Brooklyn. Her Instagram series Bringing Food Waste Back to the Table turns often-wasted ingredients like eggshells and oyster shells into stunning tableware, and she’s constantly exploring new ways to create circularity with organic materials. Today on the show, she talks about training in sushi, her design work with groups like Ghetto Gastro, and the infinite potential within food waste. Subscribe: Apple, Spotify, YouTube