The Debrief

Luxury fashion remains an exclusive club, where leadership positions are often filled from within tight, familiar circles. Despite industry-wide commitments to diversity and inclusion, the sector continues to struggle with gender and racial diversity in its top creative roles. Many luxury companies still operate within networks that favour traditional backgrounds, making it difficult for new, diverse talent to break through.“It's a role where I think people's unconscious biases really can come into play because whether or not they receive something as good design or bad design is going to be so much influenced by the person who told them that it's good design or bad design,” said BoF’s Luxury Editor Robert Williams. This week on The Debrief, BoF Senior Correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sat down with Williams to discuss the structural barriers that keep women and minorities from ascending to these coveted positions. They explore how the industry’s patriarchal business models perpetuate these challenges, the influence of consumer expectations in driving change, and how mass brands like Uniqlo are beginning to shift the narrative by appointing creative directors from unconventional backgrounds.  Key Insights:The role of the creative director in luxury fashion has traditionally been defined by a singular, authoritative voice that dictates trends and tastes, often imposing what is considered "right" or "wrong" in design. Williams explains that this model, which elevates the creative director as a gatekeeper of style, makes it challenging for those who don't fit the traditional mould of authority in fashion to rise to the top.“The creative director defined in a very traditional sense … is so much about imposing this authority from the top. And while that's not how everyone operates a brand anymore, … when you have that tradition, that makes it harder for people who don't fit the bill of what someone is used to seeing as a person of authority and in power to rise up.” Women in creative leadership face unique challenges, needing to prove their creative vision with commercial success. Williams explains, “Women have had to maybe back up their creative contributions with commercial results. And I think when you look at the women at the top of the luxury industry, you have a group of women who really know how to say something on the runway and say something with the brand. But then also really to back that up with products that women will want to buy and wear.” This dual expectation places added pressure on women creative directors, which may not be applied to their male counterparts.Luxury fashion remains a highly insular industry, where hiring and promotion often occur within exclusive networks that favour familiar faces and traditional backgrounds. “Many luxury companies still operate within a very exclusive network, which makes it difficult for new, diverse talent to break in,” Williams notes. “It's a very contacts and relationship driven industry, and so reinforcing diversity is quite tricky. If the people in positions of power don't have a really diverse group around them, it's going to be less and less likely that they're going to find out about an interesting talent, someone that they want to kind of cut into the action in terms of their studio.”Additional Resources:Luxury Fashion’s Designer Diversity Problem Persists | BoFDo Mass Brands Need Creative Directors? | BoF

Shein has fundamentally changed the fashion market, challenging fast fashion giants that were not so long ago in the disruptor position themselves. Once the category's upstart, H&M now finds itself struggling to keep pace as Shein redefines consumer expectations with ultra-low prices, endless selection and lightning-fast production. In response, H&M’s new CEO has unveiled a strategy to target the elusive middle market, hoping to position the retailer as more affordable than Zara but higher-quality than Shein. This week on The BoF Podcast, executive editor Brian Baskin sat down with Senior Sustainability Correspondent Sarah Kent and Retail Correspondent Cat Chen to delve into the contrasting paths of these two retail giants and what it means for the future of fashion.“H&M has been stuck in the middle with kind of a muddled identity … It's trying to figure out how to differentiate itself,” said Chen. Meanwhile, Shein’s breakneck growth comes with a heavy environmental toll, raising questions about the industry’s efforts to reduce emissions.“Shein’s growth is phenomenal, but its environmental impact has grown even faster than its sales… now outpacing all other large fashion companies,” Kent said.Key Insights:H&M’s CEO Daniel Ervér is focusing on a strategy to occupy the middle ground between ultra-budget brands like Shein and more premium fast fashion like Zara. The goal is to appeal to both ends of the market with a mix of affordable basics and higher-end pieces, as Ervér explained to Chen in her interview with the CEO. “[Ervér] said they were committed to this position of wanting to offer something to everybody.Shein’s rapid growth has turned it into fashion’s biggest polluter, surpassing even Inditex in emissions. The company’s production model, reliance on cheap polyester, and coal-powered manufacturing contribute heavily to its environmental impact. “Over the last three years, their emissions have tripled as their sales have grown hugely,” Kent explained. Shein’s rapid growth has turned it into fashion’s biggest polluter, surpassing even Inditex in emissions. The company’s production model, reliance on cheap polyester, and coal-powered manufacturing contribute heavily to its environmental impact. “Over the last three years, their emissions have tripled as their sales have grown hugely,” Kent explained. As Shein continues its rapid growth, the company faces increasing scrutiny from regulators and potential investors regarding its environmental and labour practices. But Shein is unlikely to face major restrictions on how it operates anytime soon. “The hand of regulation moves slowly, and so far, most companies are being asked to provide a bit more transparency,” Kent said. “No one's facing any real penalties for being the worst polluter at the moment.” Shein’s growth may be peaking, creating opportunities for competitors like H&M. The market is always evolving, allowing established brands to find ways to stand out. “We are at the end of the beginning for Shein and Temu. … And at the end of the day, there will always be new disruptors,” Chen shared.Additional resources:H&M’s Big Bet on Fashion’s Elusive Middle Shein Emissions: Fashion’s Biggest Polluter?

Nike’s streak as the undisputed leader in the activewear category spans generations, but the brand is facing its most significant hurdles in decades. However, recent shifts in leadership, oversupply issues and a botched direct-to-consumer strategy have chipped away at its once-untouchable brand image. As challengers like Hoka and On gain ground, and archrival Adidas surges, Nike faces mounting pressure to innovate and reconnect with consumers. “Nike remains a behemoth, … but all is not well,” says Miller. “The brand is on course for its worst financial performance in over a quarter of a century, and unfortunately for Nike, trouble is happening everywhere, all over the brand.”This week on The Debrief, BoF executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with sports correspondent Daniel-Yaw Miller to explore how Nike fell off track and the strategic moves it’s making to reclaim its market dominance.Key insightsNike’s reliance on retro sneaker lines like Air Force 1 and Dunks is driving consumer fatigue, as these once-coveted styles now languish on shelves. “At one point not so long ago, they were like gold dust,” says Miller. “But now they’re sitting on shelves for months and sometimes being discounted.” This overabundance is diluting the brand’s appeal and paving the way for smaller, more agile competitors to capture the spotlight.Despite substantial investment in R&D, Nike’s innovation efforts have faltered, allowing rivals to define the next wave of sneaker trends, like performance sport styles and technology-driven designs. “Nike didn’t really have any new products to turn to and point consumers towards,” says Miller. Brands like On and Hoka have gained traction with innovations such as On’s CloudTec Technology and Hoka’s MetaRocker running silhouette.The “Winning Isn’t For Everyone” campaign marks a return to Nike’s swaggering marketing playbook of the 90s and 2000s, and a potential early sign of the brand’s resurgence. “It wasn’t just one simple video; it was meant to communicate a new brand ethos,” Miller explains. “This Nike campaign needed to be divisive. Consumers are looking for brands that have a point of view, and that’s what Nike is trying to bring back.”Additional resourcesHow Nike Ran Off CourseInside Nike’s Big Marketing Vibe ShiftThe Rise of Sportswear’s Challenger Brands, in Four ChartsThe Debate Over Nike’s CEO Bursts Into the Open | BoF

As the first female, Black, and South Asian Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris’s every move is closely watched — from her policy decisions to her wardrobe. With Harris now leading the Democratic ticket in the 2024 presidential election, her style and beauty choices — from her for her sleek silk press hairstyle to her endless variety of pantsuits — have sparked renewed discussion. “She is communicating something, even if it's not remarkable,” said BoF senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young. “No one truly opts out of signalling something with how they present themselves.”This week on The Debrief, BoF executive editor Brian Baskin sat down with Butler-Young and editorial apprentice Yola Mzizi to explore how Harris’s beauty and fashion choices are being interpreted by different audiences across the political spectrum, and what that means for the future of political style. Key Insights:Harris’s signature silk-pressed hairstyle has deep roots. “It's a centuries old way of straightening hair, and it's been around for generations upon generations. Most people associate it with just the hair that they have to have for Easter Sunday, or the style that the grandmothers would have,” Mzizi explains. Despite the history, Black Gen-Z voters have embraced the style, calling it the presidential silk press. “It's a way to support her candidacy in a fun way,” said Mzizi. Harris’ wardrobe choices are being closely scrutinised, which has led her to more streamlined, straightforward ensembles. “The pantsuits, specifically the colour schemes — black, grey, navy blue, or just blues, with an occasional pastel, a pump as the shoe, or occasional Converse and pearls — are very much in line with how politicians dress,” said Butler-Young. Meanwhile, male politicians, like Harris’s vice-presidential nominee, Minnesota Governor Tim Walz, have more freedom to experiment. “You look at her running mate Tim Walz, and his ability to sort of play around with style with those well-worn red wing boots, the camouflage hats, rather than being distracting, they actually endear some voters to him. … Kamala, for all intents and purposes, doesn't seem to have the licence to do that.” The 2024 election has highlighted the growing role of fashion and beauty in politics. Black-owned beauty brand BLK/OPL was centre stage at the DNC providing makeup services as the event’s first beauty sponsor. “Harris's candidacy is opening up new avenues for different kinds of brands to have their say in this larger conversation,” Mzizi notes.Should Harris win the presidency, she could use her platform to further influence the intersection of fashion and politics. Harris has already hinted at this with her past choices by wearing Black designers like Christopher John Rogers and Sergio Hudson. “She'll have more leeway to [support minority designers] when she's empowered. Right now, I think she's constrained … by this idea of having to cater to this broad, collective public palette.”Additional resourcesHow Kamala Harris’ Signature Tresses Became a Gen-Z Hit | BoF Why Kamala Harris Isn’t Making Bold Fashion Choices – Yet | BoF 

Many of fashion’s largest manufacturing hubs, particularly in South and Southeast Asia, are increasingly at risk of dangerous, record-breaking heatwaves. As extreme heat becomes more frequent, more intense and longer-lasting, what is the cost to industry and how will we adapt to the growing climate risks? Senior correspondent, Sheena Butler-Young and executive editor, Brian Baskin sat down with BoF sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent to understand what rising global temperatures means for the future of garment production.“We have to assume that it's the new norm and or at least a new baseline. It’s not like every year will necessarily be as bad, but consistently over time, the expectation is things are going to get hotter for longer,” says Kent. “We both have to take steps to mitigate and prevent things getting worse, and we have to accept that we have not done enough to stop things getting this bad - and so we have to adapt as well.” Key insightsExtreme heat leads to productivity problems, including increased instances of illness and malfunctioning machinery — even air conditioning units. The reason this isn't surfacing as a significant supply chain issue is that it occurs in short, sharp bursts. “The supply chain is flexible enough and sophisticated enough that it can be papered over for the moment, particularly at a time when demand is not at its peak,” shared Kent.  “Not all factories are working at full capacity all the time, so if your productivity isn't 100% you can manage that for a few days or a week.”When it comes to working conditions in garment factories, climate also tends to take a backseat, both for manufacturers and, often, the workers themselves. “The biggest issue for a worker is going to be okay, I'm not earning enough to feed my family, my job isn't secure, and then it's really hot and that’s making it worse,” Kent recalled hearing from union representatives in Bangladesh. Whilst brands understand the interconnectivity between their emissions and supply chain issues, the drive to produce what consumers want as swiftly and cheaply as possible doesn’t leave much room for manufacturers to prioritise investments to improve their environmental footprint or adapt their factories to be more resilient to climate extremes. “We're going to need to raise the prices in order to do that. That becomes a very tricky conversation very quickly,” says Sarah. “The disconnect is between the delightful picture of peace, love, Kumbaya, green planet that the industry would like to suggest that it is gunning for, whilst at the same time paying prices that in no way support that.”Additional resources Why Hotter Weather Matters for Fashion | BoFWhat Happens When It’s Too Hot to Make Fashion? | BoF. Too Hot to Handle? | BoF

Occasionwear’s late-pandemic comeback may have felt like a reactionary fluke, but retailers and designers are betting it’s more than a trend. Background: Post-pandemic, occasionwear has been booming. During the second half of 2022 US and UK retailers introduced nearly twice as many dresses embellished with sequins, beads and jewels compared to 2019, according to retail intelligence firm Edited,. Over the same period, sequined dresses sold out 52 percent more compared to 2019, while high-heel shoes sold out 121 percent more. Retailers and designers don’t think the trend will slow any time soon as bold looks continue to flood runways and shop floors.“It's natural that now that the world is even more open compared to last year when we had just gotten vaccinated, that there's this desire for a little bit of escapism,” said Cathaleen Chen, BoF retail correspondent.  Key Insights: Outside of work-from-home and sweatpants, there’s a growing appetite for loud, statement pieces that go beyond old occasionwear staples like sequins and bold colours, and expand into split-hem pants, corset tops and velvet shoes. Much about dressing up has changed too. Consumers are looking for versatility now more than ever, and demanding comfort out of occasionwear — opting for kitten heels rather than stilettos, and slip dresses rather than form fitting looks. Though some of the uptick can be chalked up to a pandemic hangover, and some styles will stay while others fade away, the statement dressing category will remain strong through 2023. Still, cycles of consumption and consumer sentiment remain unwieldy amid wider economic uncertainty.Further Reading: Hyper Growth Is Over for Sneakers. What’s Next?Why Sequins and Platform Heels Are Here to StayJoin BoF Professional today with our exclusive podcast listener discount of 25% off an annual membership, follow the link here and enter the coupon code ‘debrief’ at checkout.Want more from The Business of Fashion? Subscribe to our daily newsletter here.Follow The Debrief wherever you listen to podcasts.

Priya Rao, executive editor, Business of Beauty, joins Lauren Sherman to unpack how the singer’s lifestyle label has managed to build a loyal fan base — without his direct involvement. Background: Harry Styles has managed to pull off a feat that has eluded countless celebrities, despite their many attempts: Building a popular beauty brand. He’s managed to do so even while taking a backseat when it comes to running Pleasing, his lifestyle line which predominantly sells nail polish as well as skin care and sweatshirts. Since launching in November 2022, Styles has not talked much about Pleasing publicly or on social media. But, the brand, created in partnership with his stylist Harry Lambert and creative director Molly Hawkins, has generated a plugged-in community of loyalists nonetheless. “[Celebrities] are coming out with these really full lines that have nothing to do with what they’ve been about before. Pleasing really feels like Harry … like you’re getting a piece of Harry when you buy [products],” said Priya Rao, executive editor, Business of Beauty.Key Insights: The Pleasing team, including stylist Harry Lambert and creative director Molly Hawkins, have distilled Styles’ aesthetic into a burgeoning brand — with fans who feel they’re buying a piece of the singer when they shop. Styles’ hands off approach has given the brand an interesting air of mystery, and his fanatical fans have helped build hype by visiting the brands’ maximalist pop-ups and collecting every colour of polish. Just because a celebrity or influencer has fans doesn’t mean their brand will be a hit — products have to be effective and messaging has to be on point for a label to have staying power.  Additional resources:Why Harry Styles Fans Can’t Get Enough of Pleasing Why Do We Root Against Celebrity Beauty Brands?The State of the Celebrity Beauty BrandWhy Male Celebrities Are Launching Nail LinesJoin BoF Professional today with our exclusive podcast listener discount of 25% off an annual membership, follow the link here and enter the coupon code ‘debrief’ at checkout.Want more from The Business of Fashion? Subscribe to our daily newsletter here.Follow The Debrief wherever you listen to podcasts.

A new BoF Insights report tracks the evolution of the fast-growing high-end footwear market — and why luxury shoppers are willing to spend more than ever on the perfect shoe. Background: Luxury footwear is booming as consumers opt to spend more than ever on shoes with soaring prices. The market for designer shoes is set to grow to $40 billion by 2027, up from $31 billion in 2022, according to Euromonitor International. As consumer demand grows, competition is heating up for brands from Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin to Chanel and Prada who stake much of their businesses on the core segment. The market is much-changed: shoppers crave comfort, but also newness and uniqueness. They also have more choices than ever: cowboy boots, Mary Janes, stilettos and mules have been trending recently. “There was this vibe shift occurring post-pandemic. The shoes that consumers want today look and feel very different from what they had before,” said Diana Lee, BoF’s director of research and analysis, on the heels of publishing BoF Insights’ latest report “The Statement Shoe: Reimagining Designer Footwear.” Key Insights: The footwear category is poised for growth this year: 84 percent of consumers surveyed across the UK, US and China told BoF Insights they were planning on investing in footwear in the coming year. At the same time, prices for women’s footwear have increased 10 percent from 2019. Shoes have gotten more expensive, partially, thanks to streetwear’s hype cycle, which has conditioned consumers to shell out for limited edition items. Of course, inflation and rising costs across the supply chain have contributed to increases. Much about the footwear market has changed. Mass trends toward casualisation have led consumers to seek out comfort, primarily, when buying shoes. Still, high heels are performing well following the return of in-person events. And, the high heel space has seen a sort of reinvention as brands opt for designs that grab consumers attention — like Loewe’s eggshell and balloon designs. Meanwhile, newcomers like Amina Muaddi are stealing share. Additional resources:BoF Insights | The New Statement Shoe: Reimagining Designer FootwearBoF Insights | What’s Next for Luxury Shoes in 5 ChartsJoin BoF Professional today with our exclusive podcast listener discount of 25% off an annual membership, follow the link here and enter the coupon code ‘debrief’ at checkout. Want more from The Business of Fashion? Subscribe to our daily newsletter here.Follow The Debrief wherever you listen to podcasts.