The SJX Podcast

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, which will feature 71 (mostly independent) brands in 2026, episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming what was once a solitary pursuit into a global collector community.Listeners can sign up for the SJX Newsletter by August 12, 2026 for a chance to win a Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus.Show notes:00:23: Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus giveaway02:25: Geneva Watch Days 2026 preview and origins04:00: The pioneers of independent watchmaking10:00: The 2000s wave and the influence of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity12:09: Survivorship bias, changing tastes, and returning makers14:03: Post-Covid independents, specialist suppliers, and social media18:43: Predictions for what comes next

As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, episode 48 of the SJX Podcast rounds up some of the best summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2026, spanning nearly every price category.Show notes:00:40: Kollokium Projekt 2 Variant C01:34: Baltic Heures du Monde02:10: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF00103:40: Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition04:25: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”05:56: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer07:16: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium09:15: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver10:20: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Cardinal Points"12:15: Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller14:10: Greubel Forsey Balancier 315:48: Rolex gem-set Daytona quartet

The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing.In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887.Show notes:00:30: Seiko Star Time for Shohei Ohtani02:37: IWC ProSet Perpetual Calendar07:35: Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 196912:18: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement14:10: TAG Heuer Monaco V416:15: TAG Heuer high-frequency chronographs18:15: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twin Chrono and Audemars Piguet Michael Schumacher Laptimer20:23: Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek ref. 7887

In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon and SJX examine the Swiss watch industry's June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop.The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand's patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement.Show notes:00:35: Analysis of June data for Swiss watch exports05:20: Rolex inclined-plane clock09:30: Rolex Submariner Desk Clock

The unprecedented collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet that resulted in the Royal Pop dominated the product's first news cycle, but market enthusiasm seems to have cooled off, with anecdotal evidence supported by broader search trends.On Episode 45 of the SJX Podcast, we look back at the launch, and discuss what future collaborators might do differently to avoid the same fate.We also look at the opposite end of the market, which in some ways is only gaining momentum, with a number of multi-million-dollar results in the spring auctions.Show notes:00:30: Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop02:30: Google search volume05:25: F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription result at Phillips10:10: F.P. Journe 'Swiss Fine Timing' edition results13:41: Christie's highlights, including Patek Philippe ref. 3448G 'Red Dot' and ref. 5959R

Episode 44 of the SJX Podcast covers new releases from Grand Seiko, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. The common thread that ties these releases together is that each is an incremental update to a previous model. Grand Seiko's updates to the Evolution 9 collection are perhaps most notable simply due to the brand's larger scale, and for what this refresh indicates about how the brand is listening to collector feedback. We also shares our condolences with the Stern family over the passing of Philippe Stern, and discuss his towering legacy.Show notes:00:30: Philippe Stern's legacy06:00: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 refresh (new bracelets and UFA movements)09:30: Greubel Forsey Balancier QM12:50: Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar15:00: Breguet Tourbillon 225th Anniversary16:00: Chanel Chessboard

Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex — a leading white label maker of Swiss watches — he needs to be. For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Mr Biard at the company's secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes.The discussion covers the emergence of the 'micro-brand' (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company.

Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand's past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel's watch business into what it is today.When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it's a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix.