The SJX Podcast

Seiko is on something of a resurgence, aiming to take back its reputation as a value leader after the emergence, over the past decade, of increasingly competitive micro-brands. On episode 33 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the King Seiko Vanac, now available in titanium, and the Marinemaster, which has been transformed through a number of incremental upgrades. The discussion then turns to some other affordable new releases from Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, which just launched an in-house 'flyer' GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve.Show notes:00:35: King Seiko Vanac Titanium3:30: Seiko Marinemaster8:00: Orient Star M4511:10: Raketa Baikonur12:20: Christopher Ward Sealander True GMT

Watches & Wonders is less than a month away, so for episode 32 of the SJX Podcast we're talking about what we'd want to see from some of the major brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, and Tudor. It's always difficult to make predictions, and the best releases from every year are usually a surprise, but Andrew put together a few picks that we believe would be crowd-pleasers, were they to be made.SJX and Brandon also discuss the latest minute repeater from Girard-Perregaux, and SJX's own collaboration with Habring²: the Chrono-Felix Medicus chronograph.Show notes:1:00: Patek Philippe3:00: Grand Seiko4:20: Tudor7:30: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges11:30: Habring² x SJX Chrono-Felix Medicus

Episode 31 of the SJX Podcast digs into two major industry reports — one from Vontobel on the primary market and one from EveryWatch on the secondary — and what they reveal about where value is concentrating in the watch industry. SJX and Brandon discuss the K-shaped nature of the market, the dominance of F.P. Journe among independents, and Cartier's remarkable ability to sell across every price tier. The discussion also touches on the role of emotion in driving purchase decisions, the financialisation of the hobby, and why market reports have limited utility for collectors.Show notes:00:30: K-shaped market dynamics — Vontobel and EveryWatch reports3:00: F.P. Journe dominance among independents4:00: Cartier's unique market position10:00: Emotion vs. financialisation14:00: Marteau & Co.16:00: Phillips

On episode 30 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss to what extent the latest crop of jump hour watches constitutes a trend. In just the first six weeks of 2026, several new jump hour models have been released, including a new collection from Audemars Piguet and the relaunch of the Niton brand, which is discussed in detail. Even the Louis Vuitton Convergence also fits into this trend aesthetically, despite being a dragging hours construction. SJX also provides context on the leading jump hour watches in the industry and shares views on whether reliability still matters in today's market. Show notes:1:30: Niton Prima5:30: Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence8:45: Berneron Quantième Annuel11:30: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk12:10: Lange Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage III, and Harry Winston Opus 313:10: How important is reliability?

SJX has just returned from the Tokyo launch of Louis Vuitton's third independent watchmaking collaboration, this time with De Bethune. Episode 29 of the SJX Podcast covers what it means for both brands, and unpacks the details of both the GMT Louis Varius wristwatch and the monumental Sympathique clock that it can be paired with.Brandon and SJX also provide hands-on analysis of the Escale Worldtime and Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton that debuted during LVMH Watch Week in January.Show notes:00:30: Louis Varius Sympathique Clock12:30: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime14:40: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Flying Tourbillon15:30: Louis Vuitton Escale Twin Zone17:30: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton

Episode 27 of the SJX Podcast opens the archives to find the most impractical and illegible watches that somehow still manage to be worthwhile despite the triumph of form over function. It's a difficult formula to get right, and the landscape of fine watchmaking is littered with examples of watches that sacrificed too much at the altar of fashion. But those that strike the right balance are especially memorable.SJX and Brandon also discuss a couple of emerging independents from as far afield as Japan and Finland.Show notes:01:00: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Time Pyramid (2014)2:45: Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium7:30: Patek Philippe 5330G Tokyo Edition11:00: New Indies: Nouvelle Chronometrie14:00: New Indies: Kortela Valta

Episode 26 of the SJX Podcast breaks down the best releases from LVMH Watch Week, which saw the return of the hand-painted Escale Worldtime. The slate of releases also includes a surprising new men's watch from Tiffany & Co powered by the Zenith El Primero, and the first all-new model from the modern era of Daniel Roth. Things are looking up for TAG Heuer as well, which launched a regular production version of the Seafarer with vintage-leaning 'Intrepid Teal' accents, and a new top-of-the-line Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph that has more in common with the likes of Richard Mille than the rest of the Carrera line-up.Show notes:00:30: Tiffany Timer3:00: Escale Worldtime3:45: Escale Twin Zone4:00: Escale Minute Repeater5:00: Tambour Convergence Guilloche11:15: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton13:45: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer15:15: TAG Heuer Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph

The SJX Podcast kicks off 2026 with an analysis of the latest industry news, including Chanel's 30% stake in Kross Manufacture and Vacheron Constantin's initiative to apply the concours format to watches. We also discuss the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Honeygold ahead of an upcoming review, and compare its merits with its titanium sibling.Show notes:1:00 - Chanel invests in Kross Manufacture07:30 - Vacheron Constantin Concours d’Élégance Horlogère13:00 - Head to head: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold vs titanium