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Cooking Issues with Dave Arnold
Osayi Endolyn on Food, Storytelling, and the Chaos of the Restaurant Back Office
This week on Cooking Issues, Dave Arnold welcomes award-winning writer and cultural strategist Osayi Endolyn for a deep dive into the intersection of food, history, and storytelling. Known for her work on The Rise with Marcus Samuelsson and Black Power Kitchen with Ghetto Gastro, Osayi shares insights on the creative chaos of book collaborations, the power of narrative in food culture, and why restaurant back offices are the most depressing places on earth.
Other key topics:
• The Salisbury Steak Deep Dive – Dave uncovers the bizarre origins of the 1950s TV dinner classic, tracing it back to Dr. James Salisbury’s 19th-century obsession with muscle pulp and all-meat diets. Turns out, his theories were as questionable as his taste in food.
• Restaurant Back-of-House Horror – Osayi and Dave break down the stark contrast between the guest-facing hospitality experience and the grim reality of most restaurant back offices: dimly lit, airless spaces that resemble a prison guard station more than a workplace.
• The Art of Book Collaborations – From managing big personalities to balancing creative control, Osayi discusses what it’s like to shape the voice of culinary icons while making sure her own perspective stays intact.
• Popcorn Science – The crew debates the ultimate popping method, from Dutch oven techniques to the magic of Amish heirloom kernels. Plus, Dave reveals a game-changing sugar-lectin blend for perfect homemade kettle corn.
• The Wisdom of Indigenous Food Systems – Osayi challenges the Western idea that food knowledge is a constant progression, arguing that many indigenous cultures already had it figured out centuries ago—before industrialized agriculture muddied the waters.
• Tamale Fights – Nastassia goes on a tirade about the masa-to-filling ratio in tamales, declaring that anything but a meat-heavy filling is a failure. Osayi offers a more diplomatic take, but acknowledges that most places do skimp on the good stuff.
• Coming Soon: Kwéyòl / Creole – Osayi previews her upcoming book with chef Nina Compton, a journey through the flavors of St. Lucia, New Orleans, and the broader Caribbean diaspora.
Plus, Dave rants about overpriced popcorn salts, the absurdity of early diet culture, and why breaking into cars isn’t what it used to be. All that and more, this week on Cooking Issues!
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Hello, Home Cooking with Ham El-Waylly
01:01:42|This week, Dave is joined by writer and chef Ham El-Waylly to talk about his new book, Hello, Home Cooking, out March 24. The conversation bounces from book-tour fatigue and the strange rituals of cookbook promotion to Ham’s childhood in Qatar, censored video game magazines, and the eternal question of how much pronunciation flexing is too much.From there: Brazilian hot dog parties, frozen pearl onions, pickled quail eggs, tostones technique, mashed potatoes cooked directly in milk, breakfast sausage without sage, tea as broth, and why sweet potato fries are still on thin ice. Ham also gets into the real mission of the book—helping people cook food that is actually achievable on a weeknight, without pretending every meal needs to be the greatest thing ever made.India Doris on Haggis, Highland Cows, and Opening Your First Restaurant
01:01:27|On this episode of Cooking Issues, Dave and the crew are joined in-studio by chef India Doris for a wide-ranging conversation on cooking across London, France, Spain, Scotland, and New York, learning to break down whole animals in a butcher shop, the realities of restaurant labor in the UK versus the U.S., and what it actually takes to open your first place. Along the way: haggis, black pudding, game birds, owner mentality, kitchen culture, staffing philosophy, and the financial tightrope of building a restaurant from scratch.Paul Carmichael & Dennis Ngo
01:00:56|Dave is back with a full crew (John, Nastassia, Quinn, and Jack) plus two guests with deep Momofuku roots: chef Paul Carmichael of Kabawa and Dennis Ngo of Di An Di. The conversation ranges from New York ingredient sourcing and Caribbean flavors to the mechanics of great bread and better sandwiches—banh mi rolls vs. po’boy loaves, what makes a steak sandwich fail, and why mayo choices matter more than people admit.Quinn reports on cooking with emu eggs (carbonara, omelets, and what their texture suggests for custards and pasta), while Dave goes deep on soursop, why purées don’t compare to fresh fruit, and the necessity of having “a guy” for the good stuff. Dennis talks pho fundamentals—older stewing hens, keeping stock clean, holding aromatics late, and the unglamorous truth of moisture management (“squeeze that meat”). Paul breaks down laminated patties as a Haitian/Jamaican hybrid (dough technique vs. filling focus), plus WD-50-era lessons on why recipes are only guides without reps. Also: LA danger dogs, a surprisingly serious Disney-adjacent meal at Napa Rose, and a parting hot dog tip for NYC.C-Y Chia and Shane Stanbridge of Lion Dance Cafe
01:02:25|C-Y Chia and Shane Stanbridge of Lion Dance Cafe join Dave to break down the philosophy behind their self-published cookbook—and why they closed the restaurant after four years. They discuss designing a cuisine around systems (shallot oil, chili oils, dredges, staple sauces), building menus from repeatable flavor frameworks, and writing recipes that actually teach how they think.Highlights include: vegan banana cake and Southeast Asian dessert structure; almond-sesame-shallot “ASS” cookies and sweet-savory crossover; soy-milk mayo science and high-acid balance; frying tofu nuggets with freeze-thaw texture engineering; gluten-free dredges for better crunch; Spanish peanuts vs. Virginia; brining corn before grilling; and the one vegan fish sauce that actually works.Dark Roux on Induction, Rotisserie Heat Logic, and the Science of Better Shrimp
01:01:06|The crew dives into practical cooking technique: why some induction burners struggle to push a roux dark (and how throttling, pan material, and heat management affect the result), followed by a broader discussion of “high instantaneous heat, low average heat” cooking—rotisserie logic, off-and-on grilling, and moisture control strategies that build crust without overcooking. Dave also revisits shrimp quality—why wild Gulf shrimp taste dramatically better than commodity farmed blocks—and shares recent kitchen experiments, including Austrian scarlet runner beans with pumpkin seed oil and beta-carotene “Golden Fluff-O” biscuit trials. Along the way: New Orleans food notes, po’boy bread realities, and the usual rapid-fire equipment and technique tangents.Alex Stupak: Tacos, Technique and Beyond
01:00:41|Dave Arnold is joined in-studio by chef Alex Stupak to talk tacos (including the evolution of his “cheeseburger taco”), Substack-era dessert thinking, and why some techniques (and tastes) don’t hit the same a decade later. The crew detours into gumbo viscosity and the eternal question of whether s’mores should be toasted or fully incinerated. Along the way: freezing clams to open them, Manhattan clam chowder ethics, American cheese brand loyalty, film-forming gels, and what the modernist cooking wave looks like in hindsight—plus why “simple” food is dominating menus right now.No Tangent Tuesday: Unnecessary Flourish
01:01:19|Dave kicks off another anything-goes Tangent Tuesday with a stack of updates: upcoming guests Paul Carmichael and Dennis (with Momofuku/Kabo context) and a correction on the “German” drop-off that turns out to be Austrian—complete with scarlet runner beans and pumpkin seed oil for the canonical salad. From there it’s pure free-association cooking brain: the French galette des rois vs. other king-cake traditions, why grill marks are mostly a bad signal (and grill pans are worse), and Dave’s long-running dream of a bar “piñata service” that doesn’t involve handing drunk people a bat—now migrating toward a spring-loaded destruction machine. Quinn talks baguette iteration (including gelatin experiments), Dave dives deep on vintage Crisco lore and beta-carotene fry-color hacks, and the crew detours through oddball old cookbooks, “Japanese fruit cake” naming insanity, and a near-electrocution tale from rewiring a century-old Hamilton Beach mixer. The back half hits listener Q&A: milling/sifting guidance, lacto-ferment oxygen management, and circulator recommendations (with a pragmatic “watts + insulation matter more than marketing” take).Biscuits, Bouillon and Beyond
01:01:25|This week is a rapid-fire run of Cooking Issues staples: why most store carrots are trash (and why frozen veg is usually the correct move for pot pie), biscuit technique tweaks (including grating frozen butter), and a pie-crust method that splits the fat for a “medium” flake. From there it’s gear-and-systems nerdery: a Seattle Ultrasonics knife test, pro home-kitchen “hacks” (deli containers, tape/Sharpie, restaurant-supply pans, freezing bases), and a long, detailed breakdown of home carbonation—carbonators, cold plates vs. chillers, line materials, compensator taps, and why soda guns lose CO₂. The back half hits listener questions on Soxhlet extraction, nitro vs. nitrous, red-hot poker construction, oat-milk eggnog separation, and a precise carbonated French 75 base spec to close.No Tangent Tuesday: Full Boat
01:01:04|The crew checks in live from Rockefeller Center and quickly veers from Patreon housekeeping into Polymarket absurdities, restaurant closures, and the grim mechanics of auctioning off a closed kitchen. Jean details liquidating equipment (including a Rationale), while Dave unloads on bureaucracy, safety grounds left floating inside a brand-new Bosch oven, and the theoretical physics of jacking oven temps via PT1000 resistance sensors—plus reversible home steam-injection hacks that don’t involve drilling holes.Quinn talks risotto-style oats and fresh milling, and Dave breaks down grain texture, grinder damage myths, and why oats are mushy compared to rice. Listener questions round things out with astringency in drinks beyond tannins (bitters, resins, aromatics), blood-sausage preferences across styles, and how phosphoric acid can anchor a cola-like, carbonated amaro build.