After seven years of residencies and pop-ups, Whole Beast have finally found a permanent home on Coldharbour Lane — and Sam and Alicja join us to tell the gloriously chaotic story of how they got there. They reveal how working for other people eventually reached breaking point — from having menus rewritten around them to being asked to start making pastries — until they stood outside one day, said “fuck it”, and decided they were done letting anyone else dictate what they cooked. Now they’ve built one of London’s most exciting restaurants around fire, whole-animal cooking, nostalgia and a Champion of Champions cheeseburger.
We get deep into the food: the precise secrets behind that burger, a Sunday roast once described by Pete from the Canton Arms as the greatest he’d ever eaten, cheesy leeks loaded with six or seven cheeses, dripping hash browns with smoked eel and trotter liquor, and why Frazzles, Scampi Fries and Flaming Hot Cheetos have all found their way into serious restaurant cooking. We also hear how Alicja’s upbringing in Poland — cooking with whatever was growing on her grandmother’s allotment, and drinking her nan’s slightly mysterious homemade fruit wine — still shapes the way they think about seasonality and flavour today.
But underneath all the fun is a brutally candid conversation about what it actually takes to survive as an independent restaurant. They explain why they refuse to add service charge, why being prompted to tip for a takeaway coffee drives them mad, how the publicity surrounding a new opening can disappear after a few months, and why sometimes “money runs out” and you simply have to pivot — whether that means killing Sunday service, turning Wednesday into one of your busiest nights or ditching a complicated wine list for boxes of St John wine. Funny, opinionated, occasionally filthy and packed with brilliant stories — this is Whole Beast in all its glory.
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