Episode 9 of Mountain Voices focuses on ethics in mountaineering inspired by the release of the UIAA Declaration on Hiking, Climbing and Mountaineering earlier this year.
Part 1 (00:00-35:57)
Is dedicated to adventure. Alpine legends Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders, discuss their 2024 first ascent of Yawash Sar in the Karakorum.
They first climbed together based in London in the late 70s where their enthusiasm for Scottish ice would go down in folklore – they once drove the 1,000km from London to Scotland and back 11 weekends in a row often pinching first ascents from the locals. In 1987 they made a landmark first ascent of the Golden Pillar of Spantik over six days.
For many years their paths diverged, Mick focused on remote climbs in places like Tibet’s Nyaingentangla East – remarkable given he usually only had three weeks holiday as a government tax inspector, while Victor worked as a mountain guide, including on Mt Everest. But lately they’ve reprised their partnership, most recently in 2024 with the first ascent of Yawash Sar in the Karakorum. They’re in their late 60s mid 70s respectively, they’re still climbing, still making first ascents, and I believe, despite some impressively uncomfortable bivouacs, still friends…?
Part 2 (36:49-46:54)
Greg Moseley, UIAA Mountaineering Commission President, discusses what inspired the creation of the new UIAA Declaration, its importance and its guiding principles.
Part 3 (47:50-57:05)
Victor Saunders, also UIAA Mountaineering Commission Vice President, and author of a number of chapters in the UIAA Declaration discusses the role of ethics in mountaineering, ‘the rules of the game’.
Discover more here:
https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-declaration/
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Mountain Voices is a podcast from the UIAA. Throughout each series, the UIAA explores different climbing and mountaineering topics. The series provide a platform for both experts from the UIAA and renowned figures from the mountain world to share their views and opinions. Each series is made of up of six episodes. Season 2 launched in March 2025.
https://www.theuiaa.org/mountainvoices/
Presented and produced by Tarquin Cooper
Co-produced by Peter Bourne
Edited by Tom Tushaw
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