The interview w/ Tyler Nelson of @C4HP is out. We start a bit light-hearted but jump into the weeds quickly. New listeners might want to be familiar with Tyler's work in finger strength training, overcoming isometrics, etc. to get the most out of this podcast. The unedited version is also available on YouTube and may be helpful for anatomical references of the hand and some of the training tools we discuss.
Listener Homework:
Lorna Shore, And I Return to Nothingness
Tools: Tindeq Progressor Atomic Ninja Balls 2.5” Head to Toe Unlevel Edge Lattice Wrist Wrench Moxy SMO2 Monitor
Alex Burlison
George Bieker
@georgebieker | georgebieker.com | Youtube
0:00 Intro
1:43 Dialing in our lookzzz
3:40 Intros & “Shittiest Classics” (The Pearl, The Buzz)
7:40 Tyler’s Hx, Climbing + Education
12:10 Climbing Science or Lack Thereof
14:40 What’s the controversy?
16:50 Why defend the fingerboard?
18:40 The messiness of climbing training
21:40 Strength training, coordination adaptations, the fingerboard
25:30 Fingerboard physics/risks
27:45 The Campus board...
33:15 Fingers don't have to be THAT strong!
34:00 Lessons you had to unlearn?
36:00 Biggest Pet Peeve
38:00 Skills are skills.
41:45 Muscular Endurance in Climbing
46:15 Messiness of Climbing & ME Training.
48:45 overuse, A2 Pulley, cyst recommendations
50:45 Don't Train Like a Pro
52:45 Chronic Finger Pain in Setters
56:45 Anatomy: Hands & Fingers
60:30 Interventions for Contact Strength
63:45 Training Mistakes
63:50 General Strength for Climbers
64:30 Favorite/Least Favorite Boulders in LCC
66:30 Process as the Goal
68:45 Worst Tattoos
71:45 Metal
75:30 Donuts
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