Dave is joined by chef Fidel Caballero of Corima and Vato for a deep dive into Northern Mexican cooking, starting with an ingredient close to both their hearts: turkey butts. Fidel explains their place in the tortas of Chihuahua and Juárez, before getting into squab-butt tacos, asiento, molcajetes and metates, and why Northern Mexican food deserves more attention.
They go deep on flour tortillas: White Sonora wheat, boiling-water doughs, butter versus chicken fat, sourdough and lactic acid, hot presses, giant Sonoran sobaqueras cooked on an inverted wok, and why a proper Juárez burrito bears little resemblance to its enormous California cousin. Fidel also talks mole from scratch, Tokyo turnip cajeta, grilled fish collars, and the cooking behind Corima and Vato.
Plus, Jack attempts to break his daily cold-brew habit, Quinn reports back on tomato-water bread and amino-acid-enhanced tomato soup, and Dave weighs in on grinder maintenance, pre-gelatinized starch, tomato soup, vintage Japanese whisky, stand mixers, guacamole, and the enduring question: where the hell can you buy turkey butts in New York?
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