Eighteen years ago, Kosovo declared independence from Serbia after years of turmoil following the break-up of Yugoslavia. Serbia still regards Kosovo as part of its territory, but more than 100 countries recognise the nation. I flew into the capital, Pristina, which sprawls surprisingly far for a city of under a quarter-million people – but which has a compact and walkable centre. Among the highlights is the Ethnographic Museum, where I met curator Ilir Sopjani.
I also visited Prizren, a city close to the Albanian border – which has a handsome Serbian Orthodox cathedral. I got talking to a guide there, Angela, who told me this is a community with room for everyone.
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